A slice of Napolitana
February 23rd 2008 11:16
Naples (Napoli) was my taste of Italy before heading onto Rome. Before arriving the advice I've collected from friends and family (most of whom have never been to Naples) were things regarding their mafia lords and the chaotic traffic conditions. Nevertheless, I was sure I could take this city on.
Having arrived early from the airport, I soon discover the traffic situation I've heard so much about was no rumour. Cars and scooters shoot down the small cobbled lanes grand prix style, and buses that dominate the width of the streets bullies the smaller vehicles onto the walking paths which pedestrians, at the bottom of the food chain, must stop and lean as closely to the walls as possible to avoid an injury.
Just follow the locals, I kept saying to myself, and got on a bus not knowing exactly where it was heading. About half an hour later, I was completely clueless of my directions.
Thankfully, old Italian ladies and men were just as friendly as I hoped them to be. With my broken Italian mixed with Spanish which I know, I managed to get half of the bus helping me find my hostel.
After a morning of confusion, I was finally settled and ready to tackle the rest of the city.
Naples is a beautiful coastal city. Despite its reputation of their home mafia, it is relatively safe and locals mostly friendly. The excellent metro system as I discovered, is a much better way to get around the city than the bus and is relatively inexpensive. I walked along the harbour soaking in the mild Italian sun and explore the 1282 coastal castle of Maschio Angioino. I dodged the tourist buses and took myself into the lane ways and various piazas around the resident areas and admired the colourful, yet old and antique buildings along the tiny streets.
Usually when I travel I like to find a cafe somewhere, sit down, have a nice cup of tea or coffee and just reflect and people watch. After much searching, my nose directed me to the closest espresso bar. No tables and chairs were present and I felt like a tea. So looking extremely out of place, I stood at the counter, slowly drinking the pot of tea that was served to me, while in and out came the Italians ordering their shots of espresso, paid, sipped and gone within 30 seconds.
Don't think I'll be doing that again.
So, off searching for the other myth, I looked high and low inside Naples city. At one point, when I turned a corner just off the coast, I saw a large white mansion with a black armoured tank with a machine gun installed on the roof. I think I just found the mafia. However the entire time I was in Naples I felt no threat, nor mafia presence that signalled danger. All I can remember is the smell of the sea and fresh pasta being homemade by an Italian mama, and dodging scooters while day dreaming.
Links:
Naples: Italy in Virtual Reality
Back streets around Naples
Having arrived early from the airport, I soon discover the traffic situation I've heard so much about was no rumour. Cars and scooters shoot down the small cobbled lanes grand prix style, and buses that dominate the width of the streets bullies the smaller vehicles onto the walking paths which pedestrians, at the bottom of the food chain, must stop and lean as closely to the walls as possible to avoid an injury.
The 'beaches' of Naples
Maschio Angioino from a distance
Just follow the locals, I kept saying to myself, and got on a bus not knowing exactly where it was heading. About half an hour later, I was completely clueless of my directions.
Thankfully, old Italian ladies and men were just as friendly as I hoped them to be. With my broken Italian mixed with Spanish which I know, I managed to get half of the bus helping me find my hostel.
After a morning of confusion, I was finally settled and ready to tackle the rest of the city.
The Maschio Angioino
Naples is a beautiful coastal city. Despite its reputation of their home mafia, it is relatively safe and locals mostly friendly. The excellent metro system as I discovered, is a much better way to get around the city than the bus and is relatively inexpensive. I walked along the harbour soaking in the mild Italian sun and explore the 1282 coastal castle of Maschio Angioino. I dodged the tourist buses and took myself into the lane ways and various piazas around the resident areas and admired the colourful, yet old and antique buildings along the tiny streets.
Usually when I travel I like to find a cafe somewhere, sit down, have a nice cup of tea or coffee and just reflect and people watch. After much searching, my nose directed me to the closest espresso bar. No tables and chairs were present and I felt like a tea. So looking extremely out of place, I stood at the counter, slowly drinking the pot of tea that was served to me, while in and out came the Italians ordering their shots of espresso, paid, sipped and gone within 30 seconds.
A friendly grocer posing for the photo
Don't think I'll be doing that again.
So, off searching for the other myth, I looked high and low inside Naples city. At one point, when I turned a corner just off the coast, I saw a large white mansion with a black armoured tank with a machine gun installed on the roof. I think I just found the mafia. However the entire time I was in Naples I felt no threat, nor mafia presence that signalled danger. All I can remember is the smell of the sea and fresh pasta being homemade by an Italian mama, and dodging scooters while day dreaming.
Hmmm... pasta
Links:
Naples: Italy in Virtual Reality
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I read somewhere else how they drink coffee so fast in Italy. They must have places you can relax and take your time surely?
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Well, there are cafes you can sit down and relax but they cost more. You pay more for your cup of coffee that you are going to consume sitting down, and I was just really, being stingy
The best places are on a balcony somewhere in town and just sitting down and enjoy the view, it's so romantic
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