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Argentina: Tango is in the Aires

Ricky Martin, Enrique Ingles... we know the type, the type that can dance, shake their bum bum and look lusciously Latin, but this time, NOT Americanised Spanish/Latin hit boys.

Welcome to streets full of that vibe: Buenos Aires.

Besides being the capital of Argentina and home to the story of the hit Broadway musical Evita, it is a city full of style, beautiful Latin bodies and cheap designer shopping.

Buenos Aires city centre
European buildings occupy most of Beunos Aires' city centre


My visit in Buenos Aires was just after the three months volunteer project abroad in Peru, and immediately the difference hit me. This city is so extremely European I could almost smell Milan in the air.

My first two days were spent... well... shopping. Not really. I had no intension to buy anything as I was really stranded for money by this time of my trip, however, I did notice one thing - everything was really cheap, for the genuine brands they were offering.

Besides big brands such as Armani and CK, Argentina is well known for their leather products, and many small leather smiths have their little shop fronts that would tailor jackets and pants and all things leather to your liking, for a fraction of what we would pay at home for similar quality goods. Although, marketing is hard. Beautiful men and women (ok, mostly men) target tourists and try to convince them to go into the shops with them so they can show off their 'brands'. I did, out of curiosity, follow a fellow into such shop front. I am guess they couldn't afford one that was facing the street and it was a side street entry into a small leather workshop (the thought of scam didn't even cross my mind - but all was well) - I was shown many designs, and offers for a soft, smooth cow hide leather jacket for a mere AU$70.

They even offered to print the label with my name on it - "to name this beautiful jacket after a beautiful lady" - so they say.

I didn't take the offer, must to their disappointment. I am not a leather girl and prefer my comfortable cotton. However, I must recommend their workmanship on these jackets, they did, feel, touch and look, extremely schick.

On the third day, I decided to venture out of the central district and followed my guidebook to the suburb of La Boca and San Telmo.

La Boca
The beautifully painted walls along the Caminito at La Boca


La Boca - for all football fans would know is the home to the famous Boca Juniors - is a funky little area. Poor and run down and quite dangerous to be hanging around at night, it is a delight to visit during the day. Brightly painted houses and colourful side walks are the icon of this area and the Caminito, a short pedestrian only lane are lined with cafes, clown buskers, beautiful tango dancers who pose and dance for a bit of tips and children trying to be on-demand artists. We came across one that raved about his drawing abilities and his 'special discount' for us if we take his offer to draw our portrait while we wait. For 5 pesos, we had nothing to lose.

Funky La Boca
Funky surprises are everywhere in La Boca


Although it did turn out that his drawing abilities couldn't even be compared to my niece, but oh wells.

And then there is San Telmo, an artistic, urban district full of artists, antique stores and Tango dancers. This time, not as much for money as for their passion to dance and share the flair. A daily market is a great place for the rare find of the vintage records, mirrors, paintings, spoons and other tempting buys. Right next to the market, a street stage set up for willing performers to stamp away with their partners, showing off their moves of the fiery passionate dance.

Street Tango
A tourist being dragged into an impromptu Tango lesson


Great place to find a nice cozy yet stylist cafe to sip a little cortados (think extremely strong coffee with a drop of milk) while people watching. You can even just stroll the cobbled streets and perhaps bring home the hard to find vintage gramophone.

I was having so much fun, that I spent a whole five days totally forgot about all the touristy stuff I was suppose to do. Oh well, I'll just have to visit Evita's grave site on my next visit.


Links:
Tourism Argentina website
Lonely Planet's guide to Buenos Aires
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4 Comments. [ Add A Comment ]
1. February 2nd 2008 @ 21:13. katyzzz Says:
Amy, keep your eyes open for the video, how could you NOT buy that jacket, we do have some cold nights in Australia, when one goes for warmth, no matter what your preferences. I suppose it's a long way to go back for one. Love those OLD buildings, exquisite.
2. February 2nd 2008 @ 22:37. AmyHuang Says:
Katyzzz - I was extremely tempted, but I am just not a leather person - I have my wool jumpers to keep me warm at night
3. February 3rd 2008 @ 22:42. Lilla Says:
Wow Amy,

I have never been, but this looks like the place for me to visit...soon. I'm only joking...not that soon, I have family and responsibilities now and it'll be a while, but after reading this, I will certainly have to visit.

This time, not as much for money as for their passion to dance and share the flair. A daily market is a great place for the rare find of the vintage records, mirrors, paintings, spoons and other tempting buys. Right next to the market, a street stage set up for willing performers to stamp away with their partners, showing off their moves of the fiery passionate dance.

Put me down for one ticket to San Telmo...

Amy, what is the food like, I've heard that it is a bit heavy/queasy...

Great read, thanks for sharing.

Lilla ...

4. February 6th 2008 @ 17:37. What's Your Story? Says:
Oh Amy can I please tag along on all your travels?!

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